Schiaparelli review – it’s cocktail o’clock with fashion’s surreal goddess who out-lobstered Dalí and turned a polar bear pink
Why it matters: This exhibition redefines a fashion icon, proving her artistic genius and enduring influence on surrealism.
- Elsa Schiaparelli is presented as an artist in her own right, not merely a fashion designer who associated with surrealists, challenging Coco Chanel's dismissive label.
- The V&A exhibition showcases Schiaparelli's playful and unsettling designs, transforming everyday objects into fashion statements and creating a 'cocktail party' atmosphere.
- Collaborations with Salvador Dalí are re-evaluated, with evidence suggesting Schiaparelli often conceived ideas, such as the 'bones on the outside' dress, before Dalí's artistic contributions.
- Schiaparelli's early life reveals an innate surrealist sensibility, demonstrated by her childhood attempt to plant flowers in her face, foreshadowing her later artistic approach.
The V&A's new exhibition celebrates Elsa Schiaparelli, reframing her not just as a fashion designer but as a surrealist artist whose witty, avant-garde creations predated and influenced her famous collaborators like Dalí. The show highlights her unique vision, from trompe l'oeil sweaters to the iconic lobster dress, proving her impact extended beyond mere clothing into the realm of art.
